The Best Dishes Eater San Francisco Ate in July

There’s certainly no shortage of excellent food to be found in San Francisco and the Bay Area — but there’s plenty worth skipping, too. Luckily for you, Eater editors dine out several times a week (or more) and we’re happy to share the standout dishes we encounter as we go.

Coconut sago at Empress by Boon

Sometimes you don’t quite know what you’re signing yourself up for, but in the best of circumstances, it can turn out to be a lovely surprise. I recently dined at Empress by Boon, and when it came time to decide on dessert, I never would have guessed the form that the coconut sago would arrive in. The menu simply listed the ingredients — yuzu and pineapple sorbet, spiced pineapple, lime financier, caramel tuile — and when it arrived at the table, it looked downright ethereal. The tuile on top formed this lacy, crackable top that shattered into shards and cascaded into the glass below. The sorbet was bright and tart against the creaminess of the sago pearls. The bits of fruit added more textures and flavors with each bite, with wedges of grapefruit added into the mix. It was an elegant way to end the meal. Empress by Boon, 838 Grant Avenue, San Francisco

The summer tomato cart at Bix

Dianne de Guzman

We all know San Francisco is in a love affair with bar carts lately. But I haven’t considered the possibility of another style of cart that would take my heart — a tomato cart. Ahead of my inaugural visit to Bix, I was told about the stellar martinis and the steak tartare but nothing prepared me for this. Yes, I am a self-proclaimed tomato fanatic, and while I wouldn’t turn my nose up at a hothouse — a girl has to get through the year somehow — I really thrive during tomato season. Thankfully the table was filled with tomato fiends like myself, and we excitedly ordered the Bix Summer Tomato Cart item with no arguments. The cart was pushed tableside, where our server treated slices of tomatoes and halved cherry tomatoes with a healthy dose of olive oil, divided up the mozzarella di bufala, or water-buffalo milk, and sprinkled ribbons of basil on top, along with salt and cracked pepper. It was perfection and a nice kickoff to my annual tomato obsession. Yes, some may argue that this is easily prepped at home. And perhaps those people are right. But sometimes dinner requires flare and drama, and I’d argue that the tomato cart adds both. Bix, 56 Gold Street, San Francisco

Vegetable caldin at Viva Goa Indian Cuisine

Dianne de Guzman

A group of friends invited me to dinner at Viva Goa Indian Cuisine, and it was perfect as I’ve truly been meaning to learn more about the cuisine from this coastal state of western India. We ordered plenty of stellar dishes, including fish masala fry and xacuti, but this little dish of vegetable caldin stole the show for me and acted as a counterpoint to everything we ordered. Goan spices gave the sauce a depth of flavor that mellowed in coconut water, while a mix of vegetables and tender cauliflower kept me ladling spoonfuls onto my plate. I already want to go back and explore the menu further as I continue my journey into the depths of Goan food — but I already know what I will order first when I get there. Viva Goa Indian Cuisine, 2420 Lombard Street, San Francisco

Knafeh pancake at Lulu

Dianne de Guzman

It’s been a minute since I’ve dined at mezze powerhouse Lulu since its move to a new location in Albany, and the restaurant continues to impress. While I’ve shouted out Lulu in a previous Best Dish, I can’t help but praise chef Mona Leena Michael for a rediscovered favorite, the knafeh pancake. What can I say, I was influenced into ordering the pancake via our recent bachelor’s button piece by writer Flora Tsapovsky. Plus, honestly? Sometimes I don’t have room in my schedule for repeats, but I made an exception for this dish. What’s truly lovely about the knafeh pancake is that, while sweet, the orange blossom syrup never feels cloying or one-note. The shredded filo gives the perfect crunch, while the cheese inside mellows and pulls the ingredients together. Offset by the creamy pistachios and vibrant punches of purple flowers on top, it’s not only a sight to behold, it’s a delight to eat. I couldn’t finish it all at the restaurant, so I took the rest home and happily carved away wedges for the rest of the day. Even as the filo softened from the day and the syrup, I still found it enjoyable to its very end. Lulu, 1106 Solano Avenue, Albany